Figures 



Figure 1. Changes in barometric pressure, wind speed, wind 

 direction, wave height, wave period, and surge as a 

 cyclone passes laterally offshore along a north- and 

 south-facing coastline in the Northern Hemisphere .... 10 



Figure 2. Distinctive zones of wave action and morphologic 



characteristics of the littoral zone 11 



Figure 3. Wave refraction surrounding headlands and bays 



and over submarine morphologic features 12 



Figure 4. Appearance and classification of breaking waves 



according to Galvin (1968) combined with beach slope 



and wave height to water depth ratio as discussed by 



Street and Camfield (1966) 13 



Figure 5. Macroscale morphology of microtidal, mesotidal, and 



macrotidal coastlines 16 



Figure 6. Wave-induced nearshore currents as determined by 

 breaker angle. Cell circulation pattern with well- 

 developed rip currents occurs when the breaker angle 

 is close to zero. Asymmetric circulation with 

 longshore currents feed rip currents when breaker 

 angle is small. A longshore noncirculatory pattern 

 occurs with an oblique wave approach and large 

 breaker angle 19 



Figure 7. Some aspects of geomorphic variability attributable 

 to lithology, structure, and mass movement along 

 semi-consolidated and consolidated coasts in cross 

 section 23 



