model experiments, conducted principally in wave tanks, that help elucidate 

 geomorphologic variability of coasts include studies of littoral drift blockage 

 by jetties (Sireyjol 1965), breaker type classification (Galvin 1968), experi- 

 ments of cliff erosion (Sunamura 1983), relationships of storm surge or short- 

 term water level changes to beach and dune erosion, and studies of suspended 

 sediment concentration under waves (Hughes 1988). Physical models are 

 considered invaluable for many coastal engineering studies. (A detailed 

 description of the types and results of such models is beyond the scope of this 

 report.) 



Numerical Models 



The use of numerical models in assessing changes in coastal geomorph- 

 ology is rapidly increasing in sophistication. Models include those that 

 perform wave refraction and longshore transport computations, those that 

 estimate beach profile response and coastal flooding, and those that examine 

 shoreline change and storm-induced beach erosion (Dean and Maurmeyer 

 1983; Komar 1983; Birkemeier et al. 1987; Kraus 1990). While a detailed 

 description of such models is beyond the scope of this report, such studies can 

 greatly assist the understanding of coastal processes and landforms in the 

 vicinity of a study site. In turn, prior characterization of local geomorphology 

 based on independent data sources can provide an invaluable check on the 

 reasonableness of such models' results. 



87 



Chapter 5 Investigation of Geomorphic Factors 



