Meteorology International, Inc. 
205 Monecito Avenue 
Monterey, CA 93940 
Publication 
Deep-Water Wave Statistics for the California Coast 
Publication Date: 1977 
Location: Six stations off California coast: 
(42.0° N -— 125.0° W) (39.6° N -— 124.5° W) 
C3765 Nia ba sSemWy 35a aN B22 S010 tp) 
(33559 N= E20042 W) Gi.S° N = 118242 Wy 
Period of Coverage: 1951-1974 
Contents: This six-volume publication summarizes the statistics derived from 
24 years of wave hindcasting using the US Navy Fleet Numerical Weather Central 
(FNWC) Singular Sea/Swell Model. Hindcasts of seas and swells were made from 
wind fields developed from shipboard barometer readings taken between 1951 and 
1974. The basic approach was to convert actual barometric observations to a 
pressure field, derive the wind field mathematically, and then use the wind 
field to generate the wave field. The report presents: 
(a) Wave roses. 
(b) Wave height duration bar graphs by year and by month. 
(c) Direction-period-height frequency of occurrence distribution. 
(d) Monthly mean wave height. 
(e) Maximum monthly direction—period-height frequency of occurrence 
distribution. 
(f£) Minimum monthly direction—period-height frequency of occurrence 
distribution. 
(g) Extreme event listing (ordered by date, by wave height, and by 
period). 
Available From: Meteorology International, Inc. 
205 Monecito Avenue 
Monterey, CA 93940 
or 
California State Department of Navigation and 
Ocean Development (DNOD) 
1416 Ninth Street (1629 S. Street) 
Sacramento, CA 95814 
Additional Notes: Microfiche copies of all tables are available at 
DNOD. 
IV-46 
