Table 1 (Concluded) 





Waves 

 Hmo 



at Gape 191 

 T 





Wind 



Time 



Speed 



Direction 



EDST* 



m 





sec 



m/sec 



dee. TN** 



1200 



1.24 





7.16 



8.61 



14 



1800 



1.17 



18 



7.12 

 September 



6.91 



58 



0000 



0.99 





7.36 



2.44 



81 



0600 



1.05 





9.34 



4.23 



64 



1200 



0.92 





9.21 



3.60 



97 



1800 



0.90 



19 



9.48 

 September 



5.41 



142 



0000 



0.75 





9.41 



4.07 



201 



0600 



0.71 





10.70 



3.55 



219 



1200 



0.61 





11.56 



5.23 



244 



1800 



0.62 



20 



11.47 

 September 



2.33 



205 



0000 



0.62 





11.38 



1.89 



250 



0600 



0.63 





11.18 



1.90 



258 



1200 



0.65 





10.98 



5.14 



94 



1800 



0.66 



21 



11.13 

 September 



3.64 



120 



0000 



0.63 





10.67 



3.51 



113 



0600 



0.58 





11.08 



2.99 



124 



1200 



0.61 





12.39 



2.79 



115 



1800 



0.56 



22 



12.19 

 September 



2.51 



78 



0000 



0.52 





12.19 



5.57 



51 



0600 



0.90 





4.31 



7.48 



51 



1200 



0.86 





5.57 



4.84 



55 



1800 



0.78 





6.57 



3.80 



89 



Experiment Arrangement and Measurement Techniques 



Surf zone waves and water level 



15. The wave height distribution across the surf zone was measured by 

 filming the water surface elevation at 22 target poles made of steel pipe 

 (numbered PI to P22 in Figure 2) jetted into the sea bottom on a line crossing 

 the surf zone. The poles were spaced at nominal 6-m intervals and painted 



14 



