PREFACE 



The investigation described in this report was authorized as part 

 of the Civil Works Research and Development Program by Headquarters , US Army 

 Corps of Engineers (HQUSACE) . This study was conducted under the Shore 

 Protection and Restoration Program, Surf Zone Sediment Transport Processes 

 Work Unit 34321, at the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) of the US 

 Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES). Messrs. John H. Lockhart, 

 Jr., and John G. Housley were HQUSACE Technical Monitors. 



The study was performed by CERC in two phases: a field experiment 

 planned and conducted from 1 June 1986 through 30 September 1986, and subse- 

 quent analysis of the data conducted from 1 October 1986 to 30 September 1989. 

 Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus , Senior Scientist, Research Division (RD) , CERC, was 

 Principal Investigator (PI) of Work Unit 34321 during the first phase of the 

 study; Ms. Kathryn J. Gingerich, Coastal Processes Branch (CPB) , RD, was PI 

 during the second phase of the study; and Ms. Julie Dean Rosati, CPB, was PI 

 during preparation of this report. 



Key members who assisted in the data collection, their affiliations at 

 the time of the project, and their major function during data collection were 

 Dr. Lindsay Nakashima, Louisiana Geological Survey, sediment processing, 

 surveying, and experiment design; Messrs. Gary L. Howell and C. Ray Townsend, 

 Prototype Measurement and Analysis Branch, CERC, current meter setup and 

 current measurement; Ms. Jane M. Smith, Oceanography Branch (OB), RD, current 

 data collection and trap operator; Ms. Mary A. Cialone, CPB, surveying, 

 sediment processing, and trap operator; Dr. Shintaro Hotta, Tokyo Metropolitan 

 University, Tokyo, Japan, photopole wave measurement team leader; Mr. Bruce A. 

 Ebersole, CPB, and Dr. Steven A. Hughes, OB, photopole camera operators and 

 trap operators. Field assistants were Drs . Hans Hanson and Magnus Larson, 

 University of Lund, Sweden; Mr. Jack Kooistra, Queens University, Canada; Mr. 

 Pascal Collotte, France; Ms. Tamsen S. Dozier, Estuarine Engineering Branch, 

 Hydraulics Laboratory, WES; Messrs. Paul Bowen, Myles Pocta, and Jerry Swean, 

 US Army Engineer (USAE) District, Norfolk; Mr. Ted Bales and Ms. Trill 

 Rulison, USAE District, Alaska; Messrs. Rick Champion and John Miller, USAE 

 District, Mobile; Ms. Lynn Koeth Bocamazo and Mr. Joe Vietri, USAE District, 



