o = fc < 3 " 2 > 



where m is the zeroth moment of the water surface spectrum S(f) 

 m = ft" S(f) df (3-3) 



and/,,, is the Nyquist frequency. The spectral component 5(0) is 

 excluded from the integration. 



c. Root-mean-square wave height 



d. Zero-moment wave height 



Br.-Afc (3 " 5) 



e. Peak spectral wave period T p defined as the reciprocal of the 

 frequency containing the greatest energy. 



The spectral parameters calculated for the electromagnetic current meters are: 



a. Mean cross-shore and vertical velocity components 



u = sm 



(3-6) 

 w = SJLO) 



where u is the cross-shore velocity component, w is the vertical 

 component, and S u and S w are the spectra of u and w, respectively. 



b. Spectral estimate of the standard deviation of the cross-shore and 

 vertical velocities 



(3-7) 



where 



(3-8) 



Chapter 3 SUPERTANK Hydrodynamics 



63 



