b) Onshore-offshore vertical velocity distribution at profile 



igure 9. Vertical velocity distribution at profile section I for (a) long- 

 shore current and (b) onshore-offshore current (from Gourlay, 1978) 



(b) A completely enclosed wave basin (used by Putnam, Munk, and 

 Traylor, 1949, and Saville, 1950). 



(c) One surf zone opening in the downstream waveguide wall and 

 clearance beneath the wave generator board to permit recir- 

 culation (used by Galvin and Eagleson, 1965). 



37 



