r closure coefficient for the kinematic eddy viscosity 



Y ratio of breaking wave height to mean depth at breaking 



y, breaker index at breaker 



/ v(measured) - v(predicted). ,, ^ ^ , ,. 

 a ( v(predicted) ^' ^^^sen, Ostendorf. and 



Reynolds (1978) 



n 

 _ T • ^ / maxv 



a scaling parameter (= —; — ) 



e scaling parameter (= — ) 



K von Karman Constant =0.4 



? mean vertical particle displacement caused by wave passage 



n displacement of water surface with respect to SWL by passage 



of wave 



Ti wave surface variation based on second-order cnoidal theory 



n MWL change above or below the SWL 



T\, magnitude of the wave setdown at the breakpoint 



Ti_ maximum wave setup at the shoreline 



m '^ 



X eigenvalues 



y angle between u and u^ 



V-i the lateral turbulent eddy viscosity due to waves, time 



averaged 



Vj^ kinematic eddy viscosity (=y /p) 



V kinematic eddy viscosity in the alongshore direction 

 5 amplitude of wave orbital particle displacement 



? surf similarity parameter, Battjes (1974b) 



L modified surf similarity parameter, Ostendorf and Madsen (1979) 



p mass density (p=w/g) 



T, bottom shear stress 



T a true turbulent Reynolds stress due to random turbulent 



velocity interactions at scales far less than the wave orbital 

 velocity scale 



19 



