E(in) complete elliptic integral of the second kind 



erf error function 



F general flux of energy toward the shore 



f Darcy-Weisbach type friction coefficient (= 8C ) 



f the mean frequency of the wave energy spectrum 



f current friction factor 

 c 



f friction factor for waves and currents relative to total 

 cw 



velocity 



f time-averaged friction coefficient 



f wave friction factor 

 w 



g acceleration due to gravity 



H wave height 



H the stochastic wave height 



H, breaking wave height 



H, significant wave height at the breakers 



H2 mean square value of the fictitious wave height 



H the fictitious root-mean-square (rms) wave height 



H maximum possible wave height in the surf zone 



H deepwater wave height 



H /L wave steepness 

 o o '^ 



H deepwater significant wave height 



H root-mean-square (rms) wave height 



h water depth to mean water level (MWL) 



h, mean depth at breaking 



I incident wave front 



I Iribarren No. 



r 



i unit vector in the x-direction 



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