SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



A coefficient in Longuet-Higgins ' (1970) original theory 



Ap (=-^^|_§Y)^ Dalrymple and Lozano (1978)6 8 



a wave amplitude; a = H/2 



a characterizes the vertical accelerations due to wave 



( d^h, 

 steepness (= "r~2^ 



a deepwater wave amplitude 



a maximum horizontal excursion amplitude of wave orbital 



"" . T 



motion(= -tt- U ) in shallow water 

 ZTT m 



1' 2 



coefficients in Longuet-Higgins' (1970) original theory 



b characterizes the vertical accelerations due to bed-slope 



d^z 

 variations (= , 9 ) 

 dt-^ 



C wave celerity 



C, wave celerity at breaking 



C the Chezy friction coefficient 



c ^ 



C a boundary resistance coefficient due to both waves and 



longshore current , v 



C wave group celerity 



C deepwater wave celerity 



C* bed shear-stress coefficient, Huntley (1976) 



c cnoidal theory celerity 



D local rate of energy dissipation per unit area 



d water depth (bed to Stillwater level, SWL) 



d, depth of water at breaking wave 



E total energy density of the waves 



E mean wave energy per unit area 



E fictitious wave energy per imit area 



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