CONTENTS 



FIGURES — Continued 



Page 



77 Correlation between rip current spacing Y^. and surf zone width, Xij.... 200 



78 Dimensionless rip current spacing related to Irribaran number and 



three domains of rip current generation mechanisms 200 



79 Comparisons of field observations of nearshore circulations and 



analytical theory of Bowen 204 



80 Comparisons of field observations of nearshore circulation and 



numerical model of Sasaki 205 



81 Plan view of experimental site and horizontal coordinate system 206 



82 Comparisons of field observations of nearshore currents and numerical 



model of Birkemeier and Dalrjrmple 207 



83 Comparisons of Boussinesq theory and experiments for wave shoaling.... 211 



84 Comparison of numerical computation of shoaling waves obtained 



using Boussinesq theory and CERC experimental results 212 



85 Some results of recent wave shoaling experiments 214 



86 Comparison of wave amplication factors by physical and numerical 



models in Hantsholm Harbor, Denmark 216 



87 Comparison of pure wave diffraction by numerical model and 



classical diffraction theory for linear, small amplitude waves 217 



88 Comparison of pure wave reflection by numerical model and experiments 



of Perroud 218 



89 Comparison of pure wave refraction coefficients by numerical model 



and linear wave theory 219 



