CONTENTS 



FIGURES — Continued 



Page 



59 Bowen's longshore current profile theory versus laboratory data 



of Galvin and Eagleson 173 



60 Thornton's longshore current profile theory versus laboratory data 



of Galvin and Eagleson, 1965, test II-4 174 



61 Thornton's Longshore current profile theory versus laboratory data 



of Galvin and Eagleson, 1965, tests II-2 and II-3 175 



62 Thornton's longshore current profile theory versus field data by 



Ingle , 1966 176 



63 Jonsson, Skovgaard, and Jacobsen's longshore current profile 



versus laboratory and field data 177 



64 Skovgaard, Jonsson, and Olsen's longshore current profile versus 



laboratory data 178 



65 The model of Kraus and Sasaki compared with laboratory data of 



Mizuguchi, Oshima, and Horikawa (1978) 180 



66 Kraus and Sasaki model compared with field data 181 



67 Typical vectors of 17 .1-minute average currents at Torrey Pines 



California, from NSTS experiments 182 



68 Comparison of nonlinear theory of James (1974b) with laboratory data.. 183 



69 Comparison of irregular theory of Collins (1972) with original model 



of Longuet-Hlggins (1970) and laboratory data for regular waves 184 



70 Comparison of irregular theory of Collins (1972) with unsteady field 



data 185 



71 Bed shear-stress coefficients computed from equation (162) and data 



taken at Torrey Pines Beach, California, November 1978 189 



72 Experimentally determined wave height decay on plane beaches of 



different slopes 193 



73 Experimental studies of wave height decay in surf zones as function 



and distance from breakpoint: (a) laboratory; (b) field 195 



74 Wave height versus total water depth and surf zone width from 



laboratory experiments 196 



75 Irregular wave height variation across the surf zone on plane 



beaches: theory versus laboratory data 197 



76 Irregular wave height variation across the surf zone for four 



different beach profiles: theory versus data 198 



10 



