CONTENTS 



FIGURES — Continued 



Page 



41 Illustration of the effect of offshore bottom slope on longshore 



currents 141 



42 Calculated longshore current velocity profiles for (a) various 



mean angles of incidence and (b) various wave steepnesses 143 



43 Range of application of the mass and Boussinesq equation system 151 



44 Comparison of horizontal and vertical maximum velocity profiles 



between quasi, 2-D, and linear wave theories for d/L = 0.22 152 



45 Numerical propagation of quasi-long waves in two dimensions using 



Boussinesq equations 154 



46 Wave setdown and setup, comparison of experiment and theory for 



regular waves on a plane beach 158 



47 Ratio of wave setup slope to beach slope (K) versus f 159 



48 Wave setup versus bed slope: All experiments versus theory of 



van Dorn 160 



49 Wave setup versus breaker ratio, yu: Theory from equation (8) 



versus experiments on slopes around tan B « 0.1 161 



50 Comparison of measured and calculated mean water level variations 



using laser-Doppler velocity meter 162 



51 Some comparisons of nonlinear theory for wave setdown and setup 



with experimental data 163 



52 Comparison of cnoidal theory of wave setdown with experiments for 



regular waves 164 



53 Maximum wave setup dependent upon deepwater wave steepness and 



beach slope 165 



54 Comparison of wave setup for irregular waves and theory of Battjes.... 166 



55 Empirical data for maximum wave setup 167 



56 Empirical longshore current at midsurf position as deduced by 



Komar and Inman (1970) based upon sand transport studies 169 



57 Comparison of laboratory mean currents with integrated currents 



obtained from strong current theory 171 



58 Original longshore current profile theory versus laboratory data 



of Galvin and Eagleson, 1965 172 



9 



