CONTENTS 



FIGURES — Continued 



Page 



24 Dimensionless longshore current profiles as function of 



P-parameter 87 



25 Schematic of wave and longshore current velocity vectors in bed 



shear-stress models 93 



26 Comparison of theoretical longshore current velocity for weak 



currents , small- and large-angle theories 96 



27 Effects of nonlinear bed shear stress on theoretical longshore 



current velocity profile neglecting lateral mixing 98 



28 Dimensionless theoretical current profile inside the breaker line as 



a function of incident breaker wave angle, neglecting lateral 



mixing 104 



29 Dimensionless theoretical current profile with mixing parameters 



P* = 0.5, 0.1, and 0.05 as a function of incident breaker angle 105 



30 Calculated quantities as a function of mixing parameter P* and 



breaker wave angle 106 



31 Numerical simulation of a plunging-type breaker 110 



32 Examples of complete solutions of the distribution of longshore 



current velocities through the surf zone for a series of values 



for the longshore variation in the wave setup (2-/2^) 113 



33 Bowen's solutions for nearshore current circulations 121 



34 Solution for an offshore breakwater 126 



35 Numerical and analytical model results for longshore current, 



with and without mixing 1 28 



36 Nearshore circulation pattern, constant viscosity; physical model 



pattern shown dotted 130 



37 Comparison between linear and nonlinear theories of uniform 



longshore current profiles 133 



38 Illustration of wave setup on offshore slopes of 1:25 and 1:50, 



broken lines indicate results for periodic waves having the same 



energy content 137 



39 Calculated setup curves for (a) various mean angles of incidence 



and (b) various wave steepnesses 138 



40 MWL variations for irregular waves (a),(b) plane beach 



(c),(d) bar-trough profiles 140 



