CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 3 — Continued 



Page 



V Nearshore Circulation Systems 114 



1. Fundamental Equations of Motion In Two Dimensions 114 



2. Specification of Wave Height Fields 119 



3. Analytic Solutions 120 



4. Numerical Models 123 



VI Nonlinear and Irregular Waves 131 



1. Nonlinear Waves 131 



2 . Irregular Waves 133 



VII Bousslnesq Methods 144 



1 . Bousslnesq Theory 145 



2. Numerical Solution 152 



3 . Simulation of Surf Zone Hydrodynamics 155 



VIII Summary: Theoretical Aspects 155 



CHAPTER 4. EXPERIMENTAL VERIFICATION OF THEORY 157 



I Wave Setdown and Setup 157 



1 . Regular Linear Waves 157 



2 . Nonlinear and Irregular Waves 162 



II Longshore Currents 168 



1. Mean Currents 168 



2. Longshore Current Profile 172 



3 . Nonlinear and Irregular Waves 182 



4. Bed Friction and Eddy Coefficients 184 



5. Surf Zone Empiricism 192 



III Nearshore Circulations 198 



1. Rip Currents 198 



2. Nearshore Circulations 203 



IV Bousslnesq Theory 210 



1. Wave Shoaling 210 



2. Two-Dlmenslonal Tests 213 



V Summary of State-of-the-Art 220 



1. Physical Description 220 



2. Theory and Experimental Verification 221 



CHAPTER 5. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 230 



I Conclusions 230 



1 . General 230 



2 . Time-Averaged Radiation Stress Theory 230 



3. Bousslnesq Theory 232 



4. Data Base and Measurement 233 



II Recommendations 234 



