PREFACE 



This report (Vol. I) and the accompanying "Annotated Bibliography of Surf 

 Zone Currents" (Vol. II) are published to provide a state-of-the-art summary 

 of research on coastal hydrodsmamics and its three main components: longshore 

 currents, nearshore circulations, and rip currents. The two volumes concen- 

 trate on all theoretical aspects since 1967 but include physical descriptions 

 and experimental data made much earlier. The work was carried out under the 

 U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC) Nearshore Waves and 

 Currents work unit. Harbor Entrances and Coastal Channels Program, Coastal 

 Engineering Area of Civil Works Research and Development. 



The report was prepared by Dr. David R. fiasco. Associate Professor, 

 Department of Civil Engineering, Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas, 

 under CERC Contract No. DACW72-80-C-0003. 



The author gratefully acknowledges the help of many individuals who 

 contributed original copies of their journal articles and reports, and the 

 assistance of R.A. Coleman, J. Hyden, and J. Wilkerson in completing this 

 report. 



Dr. C.L. Vincent, Chief, Coastal Oceanography Branch, was the CERC 

 contract monitor, assisted by M. Mattie, under the general supervision of 

 Mr. R.P. Savage, Chief, Research Division. The author wishes to acknowledge 

 their assistance in providing useful references, technical review, and 

 preparing the final manuscript. 



Technical Director of CERC was Dr. Robert W. Whalin, P.E., upon publica- 

 tion of this report. 



Comments on this report are invited. 



Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, 

 approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, 

 approved 7 November 1963. 



TED E. BISHOP ' 

 Colonel, Corps of Engineers 

 Commander and Director 



