x-t 



2.7 



X-t 



Figure 31. Numerical simulation of a plunging-type breaker 

 (from Cokelet, 1978) . 



laboratory studies were reported by Horikawa and Kuo (1966) ^^ and Sawaragi 

 and Iwata (1974). It was concluded that the ratio y is a function of dis- 

 tance from the breakpoint and ranges from 2.0 to 0.6. Field investigations 



33h0RIKAWA, K., and KUO, C.T. , "A Study on VJave Transformation Inside Surf 

 Zone," Proceedings of the 10th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Vol. I, 

 1966, Tokyo, pp. 217-233 (not in bibliography). 



110 



