Table 11. Three domains of the nearshore current system 

 (after Sasaki, 1977) . 



Domain 



Infragravity 



Instability 



Edge wave 



Author 



Sasaki (197A) 



Hino (1973) 



Bowen and Inman (1969) 



Range of I 



0.23 > I 



r 



1 > I > 0.23 



r 



I > 1 



r 



Breaker type 



Spilling 



Spilling^lunging 



Plunging'\'Surging/collapsin 



Surf zone 



Always exist 



Exists or does not 

 exist 



Does not always exist 



Number of 



waves in 



the surf zone 



More than 3 waves 



l'^3 waves 



Less than 1 w.Tve 



Reflection 

 coefficient 



2 



r < 10 



r '^ 10"^ 



r > lO" 



Incident wave 

 character- 

 istics 



Wind waves & swell 



Swell 



Arbitrary 



Micro- 

 topography 



Longshore bar 



Crescencic bar 



Beach cusp 



Classifica- 

 tion by Guza 

 and Inman 

 (1975) 



Dissipative system 



Reflective system 



Remarks 



Incident wave with 

 large wave steep- 

 ness 



Gentle bottom slope 

 tanB<l/50 



tanS=l/20'vi/40 



Incident waves with 

 small wave steepness 



Steep bottom slope 

 tan6>l/10 



201 



