160 - 

 140 

 120 

 100 



80 



60 



40 



20 

 



Wind direction : SSW-WSW 

 C^2.5-2.6m/sec 



,1.5m-.,^^ 22 16 15 12 15 



. ^ ^, ^^^ii.om-^i^iv,::'^ 



♦^' TO 4iJ_ "<«^ ^7" 



BAGS-731214-2 



r = 8.0sec 



Arrows showing float 

 velocities(cm/sec) 

 »—: Above 30cm/sec 

 i- : Below 30cm/sec 

 — : Bottom contours 

 — : Significant 

 breaker 



l.Om 



l':V2fi7fyV3?----2g^^^^3' 



120-100 -80 -60 -40 -20 20 40 60 



Distance from pier (m) 



Nearshore current velocity field 



100 120 140 160 



. 55/ .^ 



■ 7- ^\r 









'i -V -^ 





vi ^ ^ " <^ 7 7 7 



\ M. 34 _!i <J« .30. 35. 







-100 -50 oU luu iDU 



Distance from pier (m) 



Nearshore current simulation 



Figure 80. Comparisons of field observations of nearshore circulation 

 and numerical model of Sasaki (after Horikawa, 1978). 



patterns are completely different and no direct quantative comparisons 

 are presented. Based upon these examples, the numerical model did not 

 simulate the surf zone for engineering purposes, in contradiction to the 

 opinion of Horikawa (1978a, p. 229). 



205 



