(c) 



WAVE STAFF 

 DATA a 



LONGSHORE CURREMT(m/j) 



RMS WAVE HEIGHT! m) 



Comparison of model and observed current profiles (a) 

 and wave heights (b) . Model underestimates differences 

 between wave heights near breaking and heights inshore 

 of breaker zone (b) resulting in sharply peaked model 

 current profiles (a) . 



:0 m ABOVE 

 BOTTOM 



WAVE STAFF 

 DATA ■ 



50 1- 



LONGSHORE CURRENT I m/s) 



RMS WAVE HEIGHT (ml 



(d) Sharply peaked model current profiles (a) result from 

 underestimation of wave height decay (b) across the 

 surf zone. 



Figure 82. Comparisons of field observations of nearshore currents and 

 numerical model of Birkemeier and Dalrymple (1976) (from 

 Allender, et al., 1978). — Continued 



208 



