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9 OS 0-7 6 5 0-4 0-3 2 



Aim) •111 11(1(1 vaiiiitioii witli dcpUi for initial ainplitiulo todoptli ratio, riJho — O-l. 



(•;il< ulalcdnsnll-irorslojMs.a: ,0005;-— -.O-OS; , 0-02;j. O, exporiinonts 



l.v Cntnli.l.l A Sli.M (. for Of =-- 0()2. 



t (soc) 



Figure 83. Comparisons of Boussineso theory and experiments for wave shoal- 

 ing (after Madsen and Mei , 1969) . 



tan g = 0.02. The data are seen to agree well with the theory in the present 

 report but they omitted data at large slopes because of too much scatter. 

 Figure 83(b) displays even greater disparity when a second crest appears 

 and this is attributed to the neglect of viscous damping. The Boussinesq 



49, 



MADSEN and MEI, op. ait. 



211 



