|H,/L« = 0357.1./p;=4 35 

 iH/h =0,104 



^ ^'•VJ- <' "U*' H ",> ^"' . U . " ..' l^"'\.^ ■ / 



Hj/to = 0.0099 , T/g7h = 8 70 

 lH/h= 0,106 



SINUSOIDAL 



CNOIDAL 



MOVING AVE exPER. 



H,Ao= 0.0039 iT/9;'R = 13.05 

 H/h= 0.111 



Variation of wav* height for three dlffarent wave steepnesses 



(a) 



PEAK-TROUGH HEICHT 



T.1.93.« 

 "-^,- 0.0103 



• DATA 18DECr5-l-2 



THIRD ORDER 



STOKES THEORY 

 LINEAR THEORY 



Hircn molt noon 



(b) 



Figure 85. Some results of recent wave shoaling experiments: (a) after 

 Svendsen and Hansen (1977)^^ (b) after Flick (1977)?'^ 



^^SVENDSEN and BUHR-HANSEN, op. eit. 

 '"+FLICK, op. eit. 



214 



