PREFACE 



This report (Vol. II) and the accompanying "State of Knowledge of Zone Currents" (Vol. I) are pub- 

 lished to provide a state-of-the-art summary of research on coastal hydrodynamics and its three main 

 components: longshore currents, nearshore circulations, and rip currents. The two volumes concentrate 

 on all theoretical aspects since 1967 but include physical descriptions and experimental data made much 

 earlier. The work was carried out under the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC) 

 Nearshore Waves and Currents work unit, Harbor Entrances and Coastal Channels Program, Coastal Engineer- 

 ing Area of Civil Works Research and Development. 



The report was compiled and annotated by Dr. David R. Basco, Associate Professor, Department of Civil 

 Engineering, and Rod A. Coleman, Ocean Engineering Department, Texas ASM University, College Station, 

 Texas, under CERC Contract No. DACW72-80-C-0003. 



The authors gratefully acknowledge J. Hyden and S. Hall for their assistance in preparing the report, 

 and the following individuals for their assistance in obtaining copies of the reports and journal articles 

 cited: Prof. A.T. Barcilon, Florida State University; Prof. J. A. Battjes, Delft Technical University; 

 Prof. A.J. Bowen, Dalhousie University, Nova Scotia; Prof. J. Chappell, University of Sydney; Prof. R.A. 

 Dalrymple, University of Delaware; Dr. M.D. Earle, Naval Oceanographic Office; Prof. W.T. Fox, William's 

 College; C. Gilreath, Texas A&M University Library; Dr. M.R. Gourlay, University of Queensland, Australia; 

 J. van de Graaff, Delft Technical University; Dr. R.T. Guza, Scripps Institution of Oceanography; Prof. T.F.W. 

 Harris, University of Auckland, New Zealand; Prof. K. Horikawa, University of Tokyo; Prof. D.L. Inman, 

 Scripps Institute of Oceanography; Prof. I,G. Jonsson, Technical University of Denmark; Prof. J.W. Kamphuis, 

 Queen's University, Ontario; Prof. P.D. Komar, Oregon State University; B.F. Maddox and staff, CERC Library; 

 Dr. R.J. Seymour, California Department of Navigation and Ocean Development; Prof. R. Silvester, University 

 of Western Australia; W.A.M. Smulders, Delft Hydraulic. Laboratory Library; Tetra Tech, Inc., Pasadena, 

 California; Prof. E.B. Thornton, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey; Prof. J.D. Wang, University of Miami; 

 and Dr. H.G. Wind, Delft Hydraulic Laboratory, DeVorrst. Those contributing whose names are not listed, 

 hopefully, will not be offended by the oversight. 



Dr. C.L. Vincent, Chief, Coastal Oceanography Branch, was the CERC contract monitor assisted by 

 M. flattie, under the general supervision of Mr. R.P. Savage, Chief, Research Division. The author 

 wishes to acknowledge their assistance in providing useful references, technical review, and preparing 

 the final manuscript. 



Technical Director of CERC was Dr. Robert W. Whalin, P.E., upon publication of this report. 



Corimients on this report are, invited. 



Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved 31 July 1945, 

 as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, approved 7 i^ovember 1963. 



^ED^E. BISHO't" 



Colonel, Corps of Engineers 

 Commander and Director 



