above bottom, the dynamic pressure at the sensor can be expressed 

 over time t as: 



"dyn 



Cx,y,s;t) = Y — K cos (k x+ky-at+e) 

 2 p XV 



(2.1) 



where k 



cosh ks 

 p cosh kh 



and H = wave height 



ky= k cosB = wavenumber in the x-direction 

 ky= k sinB = wavenumber in the y-direction 

 Q= wave direction 



(3 = wave frequency 



h = water depth 



Y = specific weight of water 



e = phase angle 



The components of differential pressure differs in phase and by a 

 factor of wavenumber: 



dP(x,t,s;t) = - Y 2" k 



- at + e ) 



cos 



sin 9 



3x 



K sin (k x + k y 

 p x y^ 



(2.2) 



