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CHAPTER I 

 INTRODUCTION 



The need for widespread wave data of improved quality has 

 been recognized by the ocean science and engineering community for 

 some time. In an editorial in Shore and Beach (October , 197^) , M. P. 

 O'Brien noted that: 



Observations and measurements of ocean waves 

 have been made at points along the coasts of the 

 United States -- at some locations over a 

 considerable period of time — but the accumulated 

 data fall short of the need in geographical 

 distribution, duration of the records, and detail of 

 wave characteristics.... [Data] ... suffers from a 

 number of deficiencies, notably the lack of wave 

 direction measurements.... 



Significant strides have been made in the measurement and 

 recording of wave amplitude and period since Dean O'Brien's 

 commentary, but the success of these systems has not been matched by 

 the development of numerous reliable wave sensors with directional 

 capability. Despite the importance of directional wave information 

 to offshore and coastal engineers as well as ocean scientists, the 

 development of directional wave sensors has lagged behind other ocean 



