Figure 3. Schematic drawing showing cell 

 of influence conventions used in the wave 

 breaking scheme 



Figure 4. The wave amplitude function is computed from the energy equation 

 assuming no dissipation. The amplitude function is converted to wave height 

 and compared to the stable wave height yh . If the wave is less than or 

 equal to this stable level, the wave is either inside the surf zone, having 

 been transformed to a state below the stable level, or it is outside the surf 

 zone. In either case, no further transformation is needed. If the wave height 

 is greater than yh , then additional wave transformation may occur. The cell 

 of influence is located and tested to determine whether or not the wave has 

 experienced prior breaking. If the wave is undergoing transformation in the 

 cell of influence, it continues to be transformed. If the wave in the cell of 

 influence is not being transformed, the local wave height is checked against 

 the incipient breaking height criterion. If the height exceeds the allowable 

 value, wave dissipation begins. The accuracy of the surf zone wave transfor- 

 mation model has been verified using laboratory data of Horikawa and Kuo 

 (1966) and Izumiya (1984). Comparisons between model results and these data 

 are described in Part III. 



25 



