22 



b. Turbidity currents (Bates 1953; Hayes 1967 a, b, c; Brenchley 1985; 

 Seymour 1986; Wright et al. 1991). 



c. Beach state (e.g. the first winter storm moving much more sediment 

 than subsequent storms) including beach slope (Bascomb 1951, 

 King 1972, Komar 1976, Shore Protection Manual 1984). 



d. Formation of shell lags and a wide variety of bed forms (ranging 

 from ripple marks to offshore bar systems)(Pilkey et al. 1993). 



e. Organic scum layers (Pilkey et al.l993). 



/ Variations in sediment pore pressure (Pilkey et al.l993). 



g. Variations in the degree of sediment compaction and consolidation 

 between storms (Pilkey et al. 1993). 



h. Irregular inner shelf shapes (bedrock) which affect wave refraction 

 patterns (Pilkey et al. 1993). 



/. Coastal jets (Csanady 1972, 1977b; Csanady and Scott 1974; 

 Ludwick 1977). 



j. Topographic gyres (Bennet 1974, Csanady 1975). 



k. Kelvin waves (Munk, Snodgrass, and Gilbert 1964; Munk, Snodgrass, 

 and Wimbush 1970; LeBlond and Mysak 1977). 



/. Vertical density stratification (Wright 1987). 



Surf Zone Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 



Much is known about nearshore sediment movement under shoaling 

 waves (Komar 1976) and the documentation of cyclic patterns of surf- 

 zone change (Wright et al. 1979, Nummedal and Snedden 1987). It has 

 been documented that the most important concepts of surf zone dynamics 

 and sediment transport are: 



a. Orbital asymmetry (as expressed by second-and higher-order Stokes 

 theory and supported by Gilbert (1889), Wells (1967), Hallermeier 

 (1981a), Swift and Niedoroda (1985)). 



b. Radiation stress theory and derived understandings 

 (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart 1964). 



c. Standing long waves and edge waves of infragravity frequency (Guza 

 and Thornton 1985a). 



Chapter 3 Evidence of Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 



