(3) Wind-induced upwelling and downwelling currents resulting 

 from onshore/offshore movement of surface water and return 

 bottom flows (Niedoroda et al. 1982; Morton 1981; Snedden 

 1985; Wright et al. 1986, 1991). 



(4) Tidal currents. 



(5) Storm surge ebb currents (Brenchley 1985). 



c. Interaction of waves and currents (Butman, Noble, and Folger 1977; 

 Lavelle et al. 1978; Grant and Madsen 1979a, 1986; Vincent, 

 Young, and Swift 1982; Nielsen 1983; Shi and Larsen 1984; and 

 Wright et al. 1991) including: 



(1) Subharmonic and infragravity wave orbital interactions with the 

 bottom sediment and with wave-induced longshore currents 

 (Wright and Short 1984). 



(2) Interactions between oscillatory flow and mean flow (Lundgren 

 1973; Smith 1977; Bakker and Van Doom 1978; Grant and 

 Madsen 1979b, 1986; Kemp and Simmons 1982; Wiberg and 

 Smith 1983; Christofferson and Jonsson 1985; Coffey and 

 Nielsen 1987). 



d. Gravity-induced downslope transport often of highly concentrated 

 sediment (Bruun 1962, Hayes 1967a, Dean 1977, Kobayashi 1982, 

 Pilkey etal. 1993). 



e. Forcing mean flows, which dominate and cause offshore transport 

 during storms and contribute significantly to cross-shore sediment 

 flux during fair-weather and moderate energy conditions (Wright et 

 al. 1991). 



/. Geostrophic circulation (Ekman spiral) and its superposition on wave 

 motions (Komar 1976; Swift et al. 1983; Vincent, Young, and Swift 

 1983; Cacchione et al. 1984; Allen 1982; Neshyba 1987; Nottvedt 

 and Kreisa 1987; Nummedal and Snedden 1987; Swift and 

 Nummedal 1987). 



g. Small-scale boundary layer processes (Wright 1994). 



h. Physical oceanographic processes including oceanic currents 

 (Csanady 1972; 1976; 1977 a,b; 1982; Csanady and Scott 1974; 

 Halpern 1976; May 1979; Schwab et al. 1984). 



Additional mechanisms contributing to cross-shore sediment transport 

 include: 



a. Storm surge-controlled breakout of coastal lagoons (Hayes 1967a, b, 

 c), tidal inlets, and submarine canyons. 



21 



Chapter 3 Evidence of Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 



