CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI). 6 



I INTRODUCTION 7 



II HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA LEO PROGRAM 8 



III SITE SELECTION 10 



IV DATA COLLECTION AND STANDARD ANALYSES 11 



1. Variables Measured 11 



2. Variation of Data Collection Techniques 12 



3. Standard Computer Output 12 



V OTHER TYPES OF DATA ANALYSES AVAILABLE 16 



1. Daily LEO Printouts 16 



2. Frequency and Cumulative Frequency Histograms of 



Breaker Height and Period 16 



3. Joint and Marginal Probabilities for Breaker 



Height and Period 16 



4. Monthly Average Breaker Height and Period Versus Time ... 21 



5. Longshore Current Histogram 21 



6. Longshore Current Versus Time 21 



VI DATA PRESENTATION 21 



LITERATURE CITED 27 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 27 



APPENDIX 



A LITTORAL ENVIRONMENT OBSERVATIONS INSTRUCTION SHEET 29 



B LEO DATA SUMMARY FOR NORTHERN CALIFORNIA SITES 31 



TABLE 



Code number, name, and location of 25 active LEO sites in northern 



California from 1968 to 1978 8 



FIGURES 



1 Location map of LEO sites between Pelican Beach State Park and Sunset 



Beach (Monterey Bay) , California 9 



2 Simplified protractors used in both the compass sector (a) and 



coastal sector (b) methods 13 



3 Typical yearly summary report, LEO site 05004, Natural Bridges, 



California 14 



4 Protractor on back of LEO form which is currently being used to 



obtain wave direction 15 



