LIST OF TABLES 



No . Page 



1 Summary of Profile Data 10 



2 Conversion Chart of Sediment Grain Size Classifications 20 



3 Dates of High Wave Height and Wave Power 31 



4 Volume Changes Between Profiles 37 



LIST OF FIGURES 

 No. Page 



1 Location map of the FRF 7 



2 Location of Profile Line 62 on plan view of FRF survey area 8 



3 Examples of typical profile configurations during study 11 



4 Profiles and sediment sampling locations from 20 March 1984 



to 6 September 1985 13 



5 FRF Survey Line 62, 1989-1985 22 



6 Time line of wave and water level records with profile survey and 



sediment collection times, tide and wave height, Gage 625 25 



7 Time line of calculated wave power for Gage 625 with profile 



survey and sediment collection times 29 



8 Prospective view of Profile 62 morphology changes through the 



study period 34 



9 Cumulative volume changes on Profile Line 62 35 



10 Time series of deepwater wave power and wave steepness compared 



with bar crest and berm crest position 38 



11 Sediment sample grouping across the profile with the components of 



the four composite samples 40 



12 Example of frequency curves of sediment samples located on the 



dune at Stations 1 and 2 42 



13 Plots of mean grain size versus sorting for all samples from 



Stations 1 and 2 located in the dune 43 



14 Example of frequency curves of sediment samples located on the 



beach at Stations 3 , 4 , 5 , and 6 44 



15 Plots of mean grain size versus sorting for all samples in the 



beach group 46 



16 Example of frequency curves of sediment samples located in the 



bar/trough area at Stations 7 , 8 , 9 , and 10 48 



17 Plots of mean grain size versus sorting for all samples in the 



bar/trough group 49 



18 Examples of frequency curves of sediment samples located in the 



nearshore group at Stations 12 , 15 , and 17 50 



19 Plots of mean grain size versus sorting for all samples in the 



nearshore group 52 



20 Plots of mean grain size versus sorting of dune, beach, bar/trough, 



and nearshore groups 54 



21 Sediment grain-size distributions across a well -developed inner 



bar profile during 2 October 1984 56 



22 Sediment grain-size distributions across a shallow inner bar 



profile during 21 August 1985 57 



23 Plots of composite mean grain size versus composite sorting of the 



four sediment groups 59 



