Bar/trough proup 



38. The sediments deposited in the bar/trough region was more unimodal. 

 All of these samples were located below NGVD and were submerged even at low 

 tide. Figure 16 shows examples of the bar/trough group grain-size distribu- 

 tions. Station 7 was located within the trough area and fluctuated between 

 the landward continuation of the foreshore and the base of the trough. If 

 only a minimal bar was present as occurred 6 times during the study (Table 1) , 

 Station 7 was located in the vicinity of the step. Station 8 was located 

 between the trough and the bar crest. This position basically covered the bar 

 front area. Station 9 samples were collected, for the most part, over the bar 

 crest region, extending from the landward bar front to the seaward bar back 

 slope. Station 10 samples were mostly extending from the bar crest across the 

 seaward bar back slope. The wide range in environments of deposition is due 

 to the active bar and trough lateral movement. The grain-size distributions 

 across this group, however, did not vary widely throughout the study. The 

 greatest variability was seen in Station 7 with the coarsest distributions 

 occurring when the samples were collected on the step or lower portion of the 

 continuation of the foreshore slope. The wave environment in this configura- 

 tion was the plunge point for the shore break and was an area of high turbu- 

 lence, supporting only deposition of relatively coarse material. 



39. The wider distribution of means and sorting values for Station 7 

 can be seen in Figure 17. A more closely spaced distribution for all the 

 samples can be seen for the other stations in the bar/trough group. The shift 

 to finer mean grain size in the seaward direction can be seen ranging from 

 around 0.190 mm (2.4 <f>) at Station 7 to 0.165 mm (2.6 <j>) at Station 10. A 

 general trend of finer means which correlates to better sorting similar to the 

 beach group can be observed, but the bar/trough sediments have less of a data 

 spread. The environment of deposition in this group ranges from under the 

 breakers over the bar crest to the plunge point under the shore break. This 

 area is influenced by cross -shore and alongshore induced currents in the 

 trough . 



Nearshore group 



40. Seaward of the bar, the profile takes on the shape of a concave 

 upwards slope. The low relief second bar located at a distance of 400 m from 

 the baseline reported by Howd and Birkemeier (1987) was observed only during 

 the beginning of the study period. Figure 18 gives individual grain-size 



47 



