PREFACE 



The investigation described herein was authorized as a part of the Civil 

 Works Research and Development Program by the Office, Chief of Engineers 

 (OCE), US Army Corps of Engineers. Work was performed under Surf Zone Sedi- 

 ment Transport Processes Work Unit 34321 which is part of the Shore Protection 

 and Restoration Program at the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) at 

 the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES). Messrs. John H. 

 Lockhart, Jr., and John G. Housley were OCE Technical Monitors. 



The study was conducted from 1 January 1987 through 31 December 1987 by 

 Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus, Research Physical Scientist and Principal Investigator, 

 Surf Zone Sediment Transport Processes Work Unit 3^321, Research Division 

 (CR), CERC, in conjunction with related engineering studies by Mr. Magnus 

 Larson of the University of Lund, Sweden. The CERC portion of the study was 

 under general supervision of Dr. James R. Houston, Chief, CERC; Mr. Charles C. 

 Calhoun, Jr., Assistant Chief, CERC; Dr. Charles L. Vincent, Program Manager, 

 Shore Protection and Restoration Program, CERC; and Mr. H. Lee Butler, Chief, 

 CR, CERC. Work performed at the University of Lund was under general super- 

 vision of Dr. Gunnar Lindh, Head, Department of Water Resources Engineering, 

 Institute of Science and Technology. 



This report benefited from reviews by and discussions with Mr. John P. 

 Ahrens, CERC; Mr. William A. Birkemeier, CERC; Mr. Charles B. Chestnutt, OCE; 

 Dr. Cyril Galvin, Cyril Galvin, Coastal Engineer; Ms. Kathryn J. Ginger ich, 

 CERC; Dr. Robert J. Hallermeier, Dewberry & Davis; Mr. Thorndike Saville, Jr., 

 formerly Technical Director, CERC; Mr. William N. Seelig, Naval Facilities 

 Engineering Command; and Mr. George W. Simmons, formerly of CERC. The experi- 

 ment conducted during 1956-1957 was conceived, planned, and supervised by 

 Mr. Saville. The 1962 experiment was conducted by the late Joseph M. 

 Caldwell, former Technical Director, CERC, and Mr. Saville. Mr. Simmons 

 served as leading technician in execution of both experiments. Mr. Birkemeier 

 was responsible for the 1979 effort to digitize the data under supervision of 

 Mr. Saville. Dr. Hallermeier and Mr. Seelig exerted extraordinary efforts to 

 preserve the data while staff members at CERC. This report was edited by 

 Ms. Shirley A. J. Hanshaw, Information Products Division, Information 

 Technology Laboratory, WES. 



