that this case was never performed in the LWT because profile change in 

 Case 600 was highly accretionary, and main interest of the 1962 experiment 

 was in erosion. For Case 911, a tidal cycle with a period of approximately 

 12 hr was simulated; the water depth ranged between 3.5 and 4.4 m, giving an 

 average depth of 3.96 m, equal to that used in Case 901. 



30. The deepwater wave steepness values listed in Table 2 were cal- 

 culated as the ratio of deepwater wave height and deepwater wavelength 



p 

 (gT /2n)*, where g is acceleration of gravity and T is wave period. The 



deepwater wave height was obtained by conversion of the wave height measured 



in the uniform-depth section according to linear wave theory. Deepwater wave 



steepnesses vary by a factor of about 70. 



Profile Morphology 



31. The profile was surveyed frequently during the initial stage of 

 each case to record the rapid change that occurred. The time interval between 

 profile surveys was determined through judgment of the rate of profile change 

 and the approach to equilibrium. The judgment was made by plotting profiles 

 soon after measurement and comparing relative changes. Therefore, intervals 

 between profile surveys differ for individual cases. The approach to equi- 

 librium is quantitatively examined in Part IV. 



32. General characteristics of the final (near-equilibrium) profile 

 reached for each of the 15 generic cases are listed in Table 3. These and the 

 developing profiles are displayed in Appendix B. Here, an erosional profile 

 is defined as a profile exhibiting a notable bar, and an accretionary profile 

 is defined as a profile exhibiting a notable berm. Of the 15 generic cases, 

 eight terminated with erosional profiles (Cases 100, 300, 400, 500, 700, 401, 

 501, and 901) and seven terminated with accretionary profiles (Cases 200, 600, 

 101, 201, 301, 701, and 801), although little net change occurred in Case 801. 



Breaking Wave Characteristics 



33. A summary of available information on the breaking waves is listed 

 in Table 4. The location of the break point is calculated as the distance 



* For convenience, symbols and abbreviations are listed in the Notation, 

 Appendix D. 



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