





Table 4 













Summary of 



Breaking 



Wave 



Data 









Average Breaking 



Most 



-Landward 



Most-Seaward 





No. of 



Wave He 



ight 



Location 



Location 



Case No. 



Values 



m 







m 



m 









.22-mm Sand 







100 



NA 



1.7 







NA 



NA 



110 



NA 



1.7 







NA 



NA 



200 



NA 



1.1 







NA 



NA 



300 



10 



2.0 







33 



42 



400 



10 



2.3 







NA 



NA 



500 



12 



1.9 







30 



63 



510 



8 



1.0 







16 



25 



600 



8 



1.1 







14 



16 



610 



NA 



NA 







NA 



NA 



700 



11 



2.1 







32 



50 









0.40-mm Sand 







101 



41 



1.8 







23 



29 



201 



49 



1.9 







20 



23 



301 



30 



2.4 







28 



34 



401 



48 



2.4 







28 



42 



501 



47 



1.6 







36 



48 



701 



40 



2.0 







27 



34 



801 



45 



0.8 







11 



15 



901 



54 



2.0 







29 



42 



911 



NA 



NA 







NA 



NA 



Note: Notation NA indicates data not available. Horizontal 



distances referenced from initial still-water shoreline. 



from the initial position of the still-water shoreline. The breaking wave 

 height and location of the break point as a function of elapsed time are given 

 in Appendix A. 



34. In Case 500 the breaking wave height was twice measured at a secon- 

 dary breaking position in the surf zone. The average height of the secondary 



22 



