GO 

 CD 



O) 



CQ 0-5 



Elapsed Time (hr) 



Figure 13. Behavior of maximum berm height Z. through time 



seaward slopes at the first profile survey. However, at succeeding profile 

 surveys, the face slope on the berm became more gentle, and the foreshore 

 accreted over a greater horizontal extent. Data recorded in the logbooks 

 indicate that the breaking wave height varied appreciably during the earlier 

 part of the run, with higher waves in the first few hours followed by smaller 

 waves before the wave height became stable (cf. Appendix A, Case 701). The 

 reason for this variation in wave height is not known. 

 Location 



60. The horizontal location of the berm center of mass was relatively 

 constant with time, with only some cases showing slight berm movement during 

 the initial phase of the run (Figure 14). In Case 701, the change in shape 

 of the berm due to changing wave conditions caused the berm center of mass 

 to move rapidly during the first 5 hr. In Cases 101 and 301, there was a 

 small seaward translation of the berm center of mass during the first 10 hr. 



33 



