(Mb 



( x c«) B 



APPENDIX D: NOTATION 



g Acceleration of gravity 



h Depth 



h Depth at bar crest 



H Deepwater wave height 



L Deepwater wavelength 



q Cross-shore sand transport rate 



t Time 



T Wave period 



w Sand fall velocity 



x Horizontal coordinate or distance 



x Location of no profile change 



Zw Maximum berm height 



Zg Maximum bar height 



Location of berm center of mass 

 Location of bar center of mass 



1 Subscript denoting condition at time 1 



2 Subscript denoting condition at time 2 

 it Numerical constant (3.14159...) 



D1 



