SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



Ai, Ai, A2, A3 empirical coefficients 



Ci, C2, C3 empirical coefficients 



d water depth 



d^ water depth at the breaking point 



H wave height 



H^ breaking wave height 



H' unrefracted deepwater significant wave height 



H significant wave height for irregular waves 



L. wavelength given by Airy wave theory 



L deepwater wavelength given by Airy theory 



m beach slope (tangent of the angle between the slope and the 

 horizontal) 



p probability level of exceedance 



T wave period 



T^ duration of wave crest 



T period of peak energy density for irregular waves 



Tj^ duration of the wave trough 



(Tj,/T) mean dimensionless crest duration for all crests above the 



probability of exceedance level, p 



Uj^ Ursell number = HL^/d^ 



Ti water level 



n^ crest elevation at breaking 



T] elevation of the wave crest above the mean water level (MWL) 



(nc)p elevation of wave crest associated with a probability of 



exceedance, p 



ri root-raean-square (rms) water level 



Tij. elevation of wave trough (negative) 



