Direction, deg Period, sec 



Height, H 



swi, H 



56 



5 



4 



0.0, +8.8 





7 



4 





75 



5 



6 



0.0, +8.8 





7 



6, 10 







9 



4, 8 







11 



6, 10, 14 





88 



5 



6 



0.0, +8.8 





7 



6, 10 







9 



4, 8, 12 







11 



6, 10, 14, 18 







13 



6, 10, 14, 18 







15 



18 



+ 12.0 





13 



20 



+ 13.6 





15 



16 



0.0, +8.8 



101 



5 



6 



0.0, +8.8 





7 



8 







9 



4, 8, 12 







11 



6, 10 







13 



4, 8, 12 







15 



4, 8, 12 







17 



6 





' Wave conditions generated on contours landward of model transition. 



Unidirectional wave spectra were generated (based on Joint North Sea 

 Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters) for the selected test waves and used 

 throughout the model investigation. Plots of typical wave spectra are shown in 

 Figure 7. The solid line represents the desired spectra, while the dashed line 

 represents the spectra reproduced in the model. A generic JONSWAP gamma 

 function of 3.3 was used to detemiine the spread of the spectra. The larger the 

 gamma value, the sharper the peak in the energy distribution curve. A typical 

 wave time series is shown in Figure 8, which depicts water surface elevation 

 ri versus time. Selected test waves were significant wave heights, the average 

 height of the highest one-third of the waves or H^. In deep water, H^ is very 

 similar to //,„^ (energy-based wave), where /y„,^ = 4 (£0 and E equals total 

 energy in the spectra, which is obtained by integrating the energy density spec- 

 tra over the frequency range. 



18 



Chapter 3 Test Conditions and Procedures 



