CONTENTS 



Page 



PREFACE 1 



PART I: INTRODUCTION 4 



Background 4 



Purpose 5 



Scope 6 



PART II: PHYSICAL ASPECTS OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE 8 



Nomenclature 8 



Factors Contributing to Profile Change 9 



Cycle of Profile Erosion and Recovery 11 



Overwash 13 



Equilibrium Beach Profile Concept 14 



Natural Variation in Measured Profiles 17 



PART III: PREDICTIVE MODELS OF PROFILE CHANGE AND DUNE EROSION .... 25 



Required Characteristics of Beach Profile Change Models 25 



Required Characteristics of Dune Erosion Models 28 



Numerical Models of Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 



and Beach Profile Change 29 



PART IV: EMPIRICAL AND PARAMETERIZED MODELS 33 



The Vellinga Model 33 



The Kriebel Model 38 



The Multiple Shore-Breaking Wave Transformation Model 43 



PART V: EVALUATION OF THE VELLINGA AND KRIEBEL MODELS 47 



Field Data 47 



Model Comparison 49 



Other Evaluations 63 



Conclusions 63 



PART VI: A SYSTEMATIC APPROACH TO V-ZONE DETERMINATION 65 



Use of the Model 65 



Historic Data and Long-Term Erosion 66 



Coastal Areas Suitable for Model Application 68 



Role of Engineering Judgment 69 



PART VII: SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 



REFERENCES 74 



