4 - 



3- 



2 - 



Data, 25 Oct. 1980, 1215 

 Offstiore Hs ~ 4.2 m, ti = 25m 



H£ = C(fc,a)h 



Hmax ~ 0.5 h 



4 - 



Data, 25 Oct. 1980, 0915 

 Offstiore Hs ~ 4.4m, ti = 25m 



Hfl = C(fc a) ti 



max 



0.5 ti 





 



Figure 



Square Root of Deptti (m'^^) 



Variation of wave height with square root of depth, 25 

 October 1980, Duck, North Carolina. Solid line is based 

 on measured a and f^. Dashline represents estimated 

 band on monochromatic theory with H = 0.5 h. 



2 I 



