SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



E total variance in wind sea, often called energy 



E(f) variance density, often called energy density 



E, depth-limited value of total variance 



E (f) upper bound on energy density in a frequency, f 



F variance density spectrum in wave number space 



f frequency 



f low-frequency cutoff 



f peak frequency of the spectrum 



H depth-controlled wave height (spectral) 



H , depth-limited wave height (monochromatic) 



t depth-limited wave height (irregular sea) 



Hj^Q zero-moment wave height, also called significant wave height 



H largest individual wave 

 max 



^1/3 significant wave height 



h depth 



k wave number 



R transcendental function of dimensionless frequency m^ 



U windspeed 



a Phillips' equilibrium coefficient 



TT 3.1415 



$ dimensionless function describing deviation from deepwater equilibrium 

 range 



u), dimensionless combination of g, f , and h 



