where 



p = density of water (kg/m ) 



2 

 g = acceleration of gravity (m/sec ) 



H = significant breaking wave height (m) 

 sb 



Cg, = wave group velocity at breaking point (m/sec) 

 b 



K = nondimensional empirical constant 



3 

 p = density of sand (kg/m ) 



X = porosity of sand 



Figure 2. Definition sketch for geometric properties at a 

 specific location as related to shoreline change 



11. If Equation 5 is substituted into Equation 4, the sand transport 

 rate can be written: 



Q = Q sin 



( 2 [% - ™ «• (If)]} 



(7) 



12. For beaches with mild slopes, it can safely be assumed that the 

 breaking wave angle relative to the shoreline and the shoreline orientation 

 are small. The consequences and validity of this assumption, which linearizes 

 Equation 7, are discussed further in this report. Under the assumption of 

 small angles, to first order in a Taylor series, 



10 



