46. PHILLIPS, O.M., Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, 2d ed., Cambridge 

 University Press, Cambridge, England, 1977 (1st ed,, 1966). 



Keywords. Equations of Motion; Waves, Surface; Waves, Wind. 



Discussion. This book is a standard reference on surface and internal 

 waves in the ocean. The first substantial chapter (Ch. 2) develops the 

 basic equations of motion and outlines equations applicable to general 

 wave trains, such as the conservation of wave action and weakly 

 nonlinear interactions between waves. 



Chapter 3 is concerned with deterministic aspects of surface waves. 

 It includes detailed properties such as water particle motion and 

 dissipation due to molecular viscosity. Then the properties of wave 

 trains on variable depth and currents are treated in detail by averaging 

 mass, momentum and energy conservation equations. Applications to the 

 waves advancing into still water, onto a beach, against a variable 

 current, and over internal waves are given. (Much of this was newly 

 presented in the first edition.) Surface wave interactions and wave 

 breaking are also included. 



Chapter 4 deals with specifying a natural wave field, its 

 generation by wind, and subsequent development. It is mostly written in 

 terms of a spectral description and has been considerably revised since 

 the first edition, which is indicative of the amount of activity in this 

 field. The discussion of several points clearly indicates that there is 

 more to be learned. 



Chapter 5 is on internal waves and Chapter 6 is about oceanic 

 turbulence, neither includes much reference to surface waves. 



Coastal Engineering Significance. For the study of wave-current inter- 

 actions, Chapters 2 and 3 provide an orderly background and introduc- 

 tion. 



47. PLANT, W.J., and WRIGHT, J.W., "Phase Speeds of Upwind and Downwind 

 Travelling Short Gravity Waves," Journal of Geophysical Research, 

 Vol. 85, No. C6, June 1980, pp. 3304-3310. 



Keywords. Boundary Layer; Comparison of Theory and Measurement; Current 

 Velocity Profile; Currents, Vertical Shear; Currents, Wind-Drift; Exper- 

 iment; Flow, Rotational; Phase Velocity; Spectra; Waves, Wind; Wind 

 Shear; Wind Velocity Profile. 



Discussion. Phase speeds of wind-generated waves, traveling both 

 upwind and downwind in a wind-wave flume, were measured for wavelengths 

 up to 36 centimeters. The measurements were from the Doppler shift in 

 first-order Bragg scattering which gives an accuracy of about +^3 percent 

 even for cases involving wave breaking. 



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