HEIGHT (METERS) 



0.00 - .49 

 .50 - .99 

 1.00 - 1.49 

 1.50 - 1.99 

 2.00 - 2.49 

 2.50 - 2.99 

 3.00 - 3.49 

 3.50 - 3.99 

 4.00 - 4.49 

 4.50 - 4.99 

 5.00 - GREATER 

 TOTAL 



Table 8 



1980 Through 1983 Joint Distribution of Wave Height 



Versus Period For Gage 625 



ANNUAL 

 PERCENT OCCURRENCE(XIO) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 



PERIOD(SECONDS) 



1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- i.O- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0- 

 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 B.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 li.9 LONGER 



19 

 46 

 30 

 15 

 5 

 2 



8 34 70 127 117 104 138 137 



36 

 73 

 17 

 5 

 4 

 2 

 1 



25 



71 



25 



8 



4 



3 



102 66 



TOTAL 



175 



461 



205 



83 



43 



21 



6 



1 















season; however, the winter-autumn versus spring-summer differences are the 

 largest. 



81 . Annual and seasonal wave direction distributions for the combined 

 years are shown in Figure 24. Fifty-two percent of the waves approach from 

 the south, 43 percent from the north, and 5 percent approximately shore- 

 normal. When wave heights exceed 2 m, 57 percent approach from the north, 

 34 percent from the south, and 9 percent shore-normal. 



Longshore Currents 



82. In this section, the results of daily surface longshore current 

 measurements are presented. Figure 25 shows the 1983 measurements at the 

 beach, pier midsurf, and pier end locations. Since the relative influences of 

 the winds and waves vary with position from shore, the current speeds and, to 

 some extent, direction vary at the three current measurement locations. Mag- 

 nitudes generally are the largest at the midsurf location and smallest at the 

 end of the pier. However, annual mean currents (Table 9) were directed south- 

 ward at 6 cm/sec at the beach location, only 2 cm/sec at the midsurf location, 

 and 13 cm/sec at the seaward end of the pier. Despite frequent reversals, the 

 mean monthly currents were directed southward during fall and winter and 

 northward during spring and summer. This seasonality of currents was consis- 

 tent with wind and wave patterns previously discussed. 



49 



