CONTENTS 



Page 



PREFACE 1 



LIST OF TABLES 3 



LIST OF FIGURES 5 



CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT 9 



PART I : INTRODUCTION 10 



PART II : CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY 13 



Climate 13 



Waves 13 



Nearshore Currents 14 



Tides and Water Levels 14 



Bathymetry 14 



Sediment Size 15 



PART III : INSTRUMENTATION 16 



Meteorological Instruments 16 



Wave Gages 18 



Tide Gage 20 



PART IV: DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS 21 



Data Acquisition System/Digital Data Collection 21 



Meteorological Data Collection 21 



Meteorological Data Analysis 22 



Wave Data 22 



Water Level Data 24 



Visual Observations 25 



Bathymetric and Pier Surveys 25 



Photographic Data 27 



PART V : DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS 28 



Meteorology 29 



Waves 36 



Longshore Currents 49 



Tides and Water Levels 53 



Water Characteristics 59 



Surveys 64 



Photography 71 



PART VI : STORMS 75 



January 1 983 75 



February 1983 75 



March 1983 76 



24 April 1983 77 



9 June 1983 77 



September 1 983 77 



October 1983 77 



December 1 983 78 



REFERENCES 79 



