7.0 
5.0 6.0 
4.0 
HEIGHT (METERS) 
3.0 
\) 1 1¢ 
1 10 
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 
Figure 9. Annual wave height distributions for 1982 
shallow water, differed from those of the other gages as can be seen in Fig- 
ure 9 and Table 8. In all but the very calmest conditions, gage 615 is within 
the breaker zone. Consequently, these statistics represent a lower energy 
wave climate in which the annual mean height (0.7 m) is more than 20 percent 
less than at the seaward gages (0.9 m). 
Table 8 
Annual Wave Statistics for 1982 
Mean M Maximum 
Hn » mM Standard T chee Standard Hn , m 
Gage Depth, m fo) Dev, m ja_¥ Dev, sec (o) 
620 18 0.9 0.5 8.3 2.6 43 
625 9 0.9 0.5 8.6 2.7 3.5 
615 2 0.7 0.4 7.8 3.0 2.2 
Date 
25 October 
25 October 
25 October 
76. Although the distribution of wave periods was similar for gages 620 
and 625 (Figure 10), gage 615 had more wave periods less than 7 sec and fewer 
periods 8 sec or longer than the gages in deeper water. Wave breaking seaward 
of the gage again appears to affect the wave climate at this location. 
Gage 620 recorded more frequent 7 sec or less periods and less frequent 10 sec 
44 
