CONTENTS 



Page 



PREFACE 1 



LIST OF TABLES 3 



LIST OF FIGURES 3 



PART I: INTRODUCTION 6 



PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY 9 



Climate g 



Waves 9 



Nearshore Currents 10 



Tides and Water Level Changes 10 



Sediment Size 10 



Bathymetry 10 



PART III: INSTRUMENTATION H 



Wave Gages H 



Tide Gages I3 



Meteorological Instruments 13 



PART IV: DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES . . . , 16 



Digital Wave Data 16 



Tide and Water Level Data 18 



Meteorological Data 18 



Visual Observations 19 



Bathymetric and Pier Surveys 21 



Sediment Data 21 



Photographic Data 22 



PART V: DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS 24 



Meteorological Data 24 



Wave Data 33 



Current Data , 50 



Tide and Water Level Data 54 



Water Characteristics 57 



Survey Data , . 60 



Sediment Data 70 



Photography 70 



REFERENCES 76 



APPENDIX A: WAVERIDER BUOY MAINTENANCE AND CALIBRATION INFORMATION . . Al 



APPENDIX B: WAVE DATA Bl 



APPENDIX C: SURVEY DATA CI 



APPENDIX D: STORM DATA Dl 



