Gage 



Nearshore Baylor 

 (No. 615) 



Pier End Baylor 

 (No. 625) 



Nearshore Waverider 

 (No. 610) 



Offshore Waverider 

 (No. 620) 



Distance 



from 

 Shore, m 



100 



500 



Average 



Annual Water 



Depth, m 



600 



3,000 



18 



Mean 

 0.7 



1.0 



0.9 



1.0 



Std Std 



Dev, m Mean Dev, sec 



(0.3) 7.9 (3.1) 



(0.6) 

 (0.6) 

 (0.6) 



8.4 



8.5 



8.0 



(2.8) 

 (2.8) 

 (2.8) 



71. Although the annual H values for gages 625 and 620 are the same, 

 the distribution of H shows a greater frequency of large waves at the 

 offshore gage location (Figure 12). The nearshore Baylor gage was in shallow 

 water inside the breaker zone, even during moderate-to-low wave conditions; 

 consequently, its statistics represent a lower energy wave climate frequently 

 due to waves breaking seaward of the gage. 



72. Wave conditions during the year varied with season. During October 

 through December, wave heights were most severe, followed by July through 



-1 — I I I I 1 1| 1 1 — I I r I 1 1| 



ICP 10" 



PERCENT GREATER THAN I ND I CRIED 



Figure 12. 1981 annual wave height 

 distributions for all FRF gages 



40 



