Results 



35. The wave conditions for the year are summarized in Figure 12. For 

 all four gages, the distributions of wave height for the current year and all 

 years combined are presented in Figures 13 and 14, respectively. Accordingly, 

 the distributions of wave period are presented in Figures 15 and 16, 

 respectively. 



36. Refraction, bottom friction, and wave breaking contribute to the 

 observed differences in height and period. During the most severe storms when 

 the wave heights exceed 3 m at the seaward end of the pier, the surf zone 

 (wave breaking) has been observed to extend past the end of the pier and oc- 

 casionally out to Gage 640. This occurrence is a major reason for the dif- 

 ferences in the distributions between Gage 630 and the inshore gages. The 

 wave height statistics for the staff gage (Gage 645), located at the landward 

 end of the pier, were considerably lower than those for the other gages. In 

 all but the calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone. Con- 

 sequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate. 



37. For the current year and all years combined, monthly mean, standard 

 deviation, and extreme wave height and period statistics are presented for all 

 four gages in Tables 3 through 10. 



38. For the current year and combined with all years, monthly wave 

 height distributions (Figures 17 and 18, respectively) and wave period dis- 

 tributions (Figures 19 and 20, respectively) for Gage 630 are presented to 

 show the typical temporal variability of the wave conditions. Similar plots 

 for the other gages are included in Appendix B. 



39. Annual and monthly joint distributions of wave height versus wave 

 period for Gage 630 are presented for 1986 in Tables 11 and 12, respectively, 

 and for all years combined in Tables 13 and 14, respectively. Similar dis- 

 tributions for the other gages are included in Appendix B. 



40. Annual distributions of wave directions, based on daily observa- 

 tions of direction at the seaward end of the pier, and height from Gage 625 

 (or Gage 640 when data for Gage 625 were unavailable) are shown in Figure 21. 

 Monthly wave "roses" for 1986 and all years combined are presented in 

 Figures 22 and 23, respectively. 



26 



