1 percent exceed 2.8m; at the offshore (3 km) Waverider, 10 and 1 percent 

 correspond to 1.9 m and 3.0 m, respectively. The highest waves occur from 

 October to March and the lowest waves occur from April to June. 



80. The distribution of wave periods is presented in Figure 22. Peri- 

 ods of 9 and 10 sec have been measured approximately 14 percent each; 6- and 

 7-sec periods 12 to 13 percent each; while 8-, 11-, and 12-sec periods occur 

 10 percent each. Seasonal distribution of wave period is shown in Figure 23. 

 During winter and fall wave periods 10 sec or longer tend to occur most often. 

 The joint distribution of wave height versus period for gages 625 and 620 is 

 shown in Table 7. Each distribution is based on over 6,022 observations. The 

 values presented can be converted to percent by dividing by 10. Higher waves 

 are generally associated with longer wave periods. 



81. Annual and seasonal wave direction distributions for the combined 

 years are shown in Figure 24. Although 42 percent of the waves approach from 

 the north, 4 percent shore-normal, and 54 percent from south of the pier, the 

 annual resultant direction is 67.9 deg, slightly north of the pier orienta- 

 tion. This is due to the relative influence the highest waves have on the 

 computation of the resultant; for storm conditions, 59 percent approach from 

 the north, 11 percent approach from shore-normal, and only 30 percent approach 

 from the south. 



Currents 



82. In this section, the results of daily surface longshore current 

 measurements are presented. Figure 25 shows the 1984 measurements at the 

 beach, pier midsurf, and pier end locations. Since the relative influences of 

 the winds and waves vary with position from shore, the current speeds and, to 

 some extent, direction vary at the three current measurement locations. Mag- 

 nitudes generally are the largest at the midsurf location and lowest at the 

 end of the pier. However, annual mean currents (Table 8 and Figure 26) were 

 directed southward at 5 cm/sec at the midsurf location, 4 cm/sec at the beach 

 location, and 16 cm/sec at the seaward end of the pier. Despite frequent re- 

 versals, the mean monthly currents were generally directed southward during 

 fall and winter and northward during May through August. This seasonality of 

 currents was consistent with wind and wave patterns previously discussed. 



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